I know the Chronicle claimed they could not list a restaurant that “captured” the Mission, but merely two months ago they did just that:
Following are restaurants that capture the spirit of their locale:
Range: Exceptional, frequently changing menu of New American food. Superb service and clever interior with intriguing use of industrial artifacts. 842 Valencia (near 20th Street); (415) 232-8283. Dinner nightly. (link)
Personally, I think that selection captures the driving force behind the Chronicle’s declining readership.